Edwardian, 18ct Gold and Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring

Ruby and diamond ring, circa 1900. Centring on three antique circular-cut diamonds against a background of pavé-set rose-cut diamonds, then a border of painstakingly calibré-cut rubies, and finally encircled by a border of smaller circular-cut diamonds, this oval ring is a tour-de-force of the jeweller’s art, and showcases the genius of early 20^th century craftsmen. ‘Calibré-cut’ stones are so-called because they are specially cut to fit the jewel, so they can tesselate seamlessly and create continuous surfaces of colour. This technique was developed in the early 20^th century, and remains one of the most expensive, difficult and labour-intensive techniques in jewellery manufacturing. Continuing with the attention to detail, the edges of the platinum setting are finished with millegrain borders – a stippled effect which breaks up the surface of the metal and softens its look to complement the dazzling diamonds set within it. An excellent example of an early 20^th century jewel, in superb condition.