Vintage, French, 18ct Gold, Diamond and Calibre Sapphire Engagement Ring

Diamond and sapphire ring. Of oval form, the centre claw-set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 0.35 carats, within a surround of radiating calibré-cut untreated natural sapphires, to an outer border of brilliant-cut diamonds. The sapphires in this ring have been specially cut to tessellate together to form a radiating oval shape. Cutting natural untreated sapphires in this way is an extremely time consuming and expensive technique, especially as it would waste significant amounts of high-quality material. Setting them seamlessly as in the present ring, with no claws or collets visible between the stone, was a technique pioneered by some of the elite French jewellery houses of the early 20th century, particularly Van Cleef & Arpels, and would have required the skills of a master craftsman.