Antique, Art Deco hexagonal old-cut diamond cluster ring

Provenance

Original to c.1925, this Art Deco cluster ring is set to centre with an incredible round old-cut diamond, approximately 1.41ct and of exceptional colour and clarity. The round old-cut is an antique diamond cut that emerged at the very end of the 19th century thanks to the innovation of the bruting machine which allowed diamonds to be cut in the round for the first time ever! This revolutionary tool coincided with the discovery of the South African diamond deposits, so diamonds were more readily available, bigger, brighter and cut with greater precision than every before. Entirely facetted by hand, no two old-cut diamonds are ever identical. However the symmetry of this diamond is rather spectacular and the fire and brilliance it produces is simply unmatched. 

Surrounded by an octagonal cluster design, two concentric rings grain-set with tiny single-cut diamonds, meticulously set to follow the crisp lines of the octagon. The inner section is bordered by millegrain edging, the outer by neat polished borders. Between the two, fine openwork creates a sense of lightness and separation, giving the illusion that the concentric octagons are suspended in perfect balance, almost as though floating without visible support.

The gallery is solid and closed but adorned with delicate volute motifs which scroll and coil in a repetative pattern all the way around. The shoulders are further set two single-cut diamonds each, adding a subtle yet slightly more delicate finish to the ring. Despite its impressive size and sparkle, the profile of the ring is extraordinarily low. It almost sits in flush with the finger, making it extremely comfortable and enjoyable to wear. 

This ring reflects the rigid geometry, sleek lines and symmetry that defined the Art Deco movement. My favourite thing about this ring is that despite its strong architectural form, the soft, gentle twinkle of the old-cut diamonds lend it an unexpected sense of softness and femininity. It strikes a rare balance: both bold and balanced, with a confident silhouette that still feels light, refined and almost ethereal in its elegance.

The stones

• Principal diamond weight: 1.41ct
• Principal diamond size: Length 7.4mm; Width 7mm; Depth 4.3mm
• Total diamond weight: 2.05ct; Round old-cut and single-cut diamonds,

Band

• Metal Composition: Platinum

The ring overall

• Front Head Dimensions: Length 14.2mm; Width 14.2mm; Height of setting 4.3mm
• General Wear: Excellent; wear commensurate with age.
• Condition: All stone(s) secure, safely set and fully covered with the metal. No damage to the setting, minor scratches due to age, recently polished and checked by our workshop.

Unless stated otherwise, gem weights and specifications are estimated (assessed in mount).