Antique, Edwardian red spinel & diamond cluster engagement ring

Provenance

Original to c.1905, this Edwardian cluster ring is a very refined example of the era's exceptional craftsmanship. Set to centre with an incredible natural, unheated red spinel that has an incredibly rich clairet colour with striking raspberry-red undertones which glimmer deep within the stone as its turned under light. Its elongated oval cut is elegantly proportioned, offering a graceful and flattering presence on the hand. It's clarity is remarkable, quite literally crystal clear.

Though lesser known, spinel has a long and illustrious history. For centuries it was mistaken for ruby, with the most notable example even set within the British Crown Jewels. In its own right, spinel is a superb gemstone - ranking 8 on the Mohs scale, with excellent durability, a bright vitreous lustre and typically superior clarity compared to ruby, which is often more included. The spinel weighs approximately 2.40ct and remains in excellent condition, with sharp, well-preserved facet edges and clean, unscratched faces. Elegantly claw-set in an open-back setting which allows light to pool into the stone beautifully.

Surrounded by sixteen cushion-shape old-mine cut diamonds with a combined approximate weight of 0.58ct. Originating from the historic mines of either India or Brazil, these hand-cut diamonds are full of character and charm. Old-mine diamonds are celebrated for their romantic glow which is far softer than the harsh scintillation of modern laser-cut stones. The diamonds are set in platinum rub-over settings with delicate millegrain edge detail. The cluster follows the elongated shape of the central spinel and its proportions strike the perfect balance between elegance and impact.

The gallery is intricately pierced with a pretty petal-like design in 18ct yellow gold. The shoulders are particularly striking - trumpeting openwork that gracefullly tapers to a curved ridge detail. Leading to a solid 18ct yellow gold band, slightly more substantial than is typical for the period, the band adds a sophisticated touch and is extremely comfortable to wear on the finger.

The Natural Stones

• Spinel weight: 2.40ct 
• Spinel size: Length 11.7mm; Width 7.2mm; Depth 3.8mm
• Gem certificate: Natural; Unheated; Red spinel; Burmese origin; Oval mixed-cut; GCS certified #5786-2700.
• Total diamond weight: 0.58ct; Sixteen cushion-shape old-mine cut diamonds.

The Band

• Metal Composition: 18ct yellow gold and platinum.
• Hallmarks: Marked with and indistinct '18CT' indicating 18ct yellow gold. Further marked with an indistinct makers mark 'AH' in a diamond-shaped lozenge that we were unable to trace further.

The Ring Overall

• Front Head Dimensions: Length 16.1mm; Width 12mm
• Height of Setting: 4.8mm
  

General Wear & Condition

• Excellent: minor wear commensurate with age. All stones are secure and well set, with no damage to the mount. Professionally polished and carefully inspected by our workshop, ready to wear and enjoy.

Unless stated otherwise, gem weights and specifications are estimated (assessed in mount).