Antique, Edwardian ruby & diamond cluster ring

Provenance

Made between c.1901-1905, this Edwardian ruby and diamond cluster ring is a stunning reflection of the time it was a made, the intersection between the Victorian and Edwardian eras and the transition between these two distinct design styles. 

Victorian jewellery was characterised by its ornate, grandeur nature often featuring richly carved scrollwork in yellow gold and arrangements of coloured gemstones with old mine-cut diamonds. Edwardian jewellery is recognised by its refine elegance and sense of airy lightness made possible by the introduction of platinum. More interesting styles of ring emerged such as the one we see here, an interesting cluster ring that almost resembles the later Art Deco style - the target ring. 

Set to centre with a natural ruby of Siam (modern day Thailand) origin in an open-backed rub-over setting in yellow gold. The ruby has a stunning cerise hue and a rich vibrancy that is rare to find in unheated gemstones such as this one. Surrounded by two cluster rings set with cushion old-mine cut diamonds, each hand-cut and inherently unique, with its own characteristic sparkle and charm!

The cluster features open-work so as to give the impression that inner ring is floating, unsecured by metal settings. This was an innovation that would be taken to new heights in the later Art Deco era. The diamonds are grain-set and bordered by millegrain edges. 

The gallery is low in profile making the ring extremely comfortable and practical to wear, executed in yellow gold and intricately pierced with a decorative design. The shoulders of this ring are such a treat! Formed by symmetrical scrollwork, further diamond-set and featuring refined open-work with gives such a stunning finesse to the ring. The shoulders taper to a solid D-shape shank. 

This ring is such a remarkable intersection of two styles. With the diamonds set in the newly fashionable platinum grain setting and adorned by delicate millegrain edging, along with the unique double tiered cluster design plants this ring in the Edwardian era, the first decade of the 20th century. Yet its carved decorative shoulders in 18ct yellow gold and ornate scrollwork speaks of an earlier Victorian tradition.

That is what I love the most about this ring in the context of jewellery and design history!

The Natural Stones

• Ruby weight: 1.40ct
• Ruby size: Length 6.5mm; Width 5.8mm; Depth 3.9mm
• Gem Certificate: Natural, unheated; of Siam (Thailand) origin; Cushion-cut; Accompanied by GCS certificate #81817-09.
• Total diamond weight: 0.60ct; Cushion old-mine cut diamonds.

The Band

• Metal Composition: 18ct yellow gold and platinum.

The Ring Overall

• Front Head Dimensions: Length 16.8mm; Width 22mm
• Height of Setting: 5mm

General Wear & Condition

• Excellent: all stones are secure and well set, with no damage to the mount. Professionally polished and carefully inspected by our workshop, ready to wear and enjoy.

Unless stated otherwise, gem weights and specifications are estimated (assessed in mount).