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Samuel Mee's view

Why people choose sapphire rings

"People choose sapphires for the variety and depth of colour plus their hardwearing durability, which makes them suitable for engagement rings and everyday wear," says Samuel Mee, founder of Antique Ring Boutique.

"Sapphires are famed throughout history and often associated with royalty. Princess Diana's iconic engagement ring is a particularly famous example - an oval Ceylon sapphire surrounded by 14 diamonds and set in white gold. It's now worn by Kate Middleton.

"Interest has grown in the last couple of years in colours other than blue, such as purple, pink and yellow. Lately white sapphires, especially those from queen Victoria's era, are in demand."

Sapphire rings: how to buy and what to look for

What is a sapphire?

A sapphire is a gemstone that belongs to the corundum family. While natural sapphires are most typically found as blue gemstones, the name describes corundum in a range of colours except red — these are known as rubies.

While beautiful, sapphires are also tough. These gemstones are also celebrated for their hardness, with an impressive nine on the Mohs scale registering just a step below diamonds. This durability makes sapphires an excellent choice for jewellery that withstands daily wear.

Sapphires’ popularity extends beyond their beauty — they also symbolise wisdom and nobility. You’ll often find them gracing historical artefacts and royal jewels. This blend of durability, beauty and symbolism makes sapphires a perennial favourite in the world of jewellery.

Where do sapphires come from?

Sapphires originate from various locations. Each source — whether traditional or modern — adds a unique twist or characteristic to their stones, be it the diversity in colour, size or distinctive qualities.

Historically, popular sources of sapphires include:

  • The valleys of Kashmir which yield sapphires of cornflower blue. Kashmir sapphires’ scarcity and historical significance make them exceptionally sought after today.
  • Burma, now Myanmar, is renowned for producing deep and vivid blue sapphires that radiate with a velvety sheen.
  • Ceylon, the old name for Sri Lanka, produces sapphires in various colours. The island's rich gemstone history adds a layer of glamour to these stones, with many of the most famous sapphires originating in the area.
  • Recently, regions like Australia, Madagascar, Montana (USA) and Thailand have become significant sapphire producers. This geographical diversity not only makes sapphire shopping a global affair but also ensures a variety of choices for enthusiasts and collectors alike.

What colours can sapphires be?

Sapphires range from the deepest blues to vibrant hues, making them a versatile choice for any style or occasion.

Blue sapphires

When it comes to blue sapphires, the most coveted shade is a rich, velvety blue.

This type of colour is often described as 'royal blue'. This hue is prized for its depth and intensity, which allows the gem to exhibit a luminous quality — especially under natural light.

Royal blue sapphires appeal for various reasons. They’re neither too dark nor too light, allowing the stone to sparkle with eye-catching saturation.

Fancy sapphires

Fancy sapphires refer to sapphires in any colour other than blue. Each offers its own charm, allowing collectors to pick a shade that suits their tastes. Popular non-blue sapphires include:

  • Pink sapphires, a vibrant alternative to blue with a romantic touch.
  • Green sapphires present a more understated elegance. These can range from subtle to an almost emerald-like deep green.
  • Padparadscha sapphires are a rare variation originating in Sri Lanka. With their unique blend of pink and orange, these stones are exotic and highly desirable.
  • White sapphires provide an affordable alternative to diamonds.
  • Yellow sapphires offer a cheerful brightness that brings pieces to life.

In terms of popularity, some colours may not have the same level of market demand as blue. This potentially affects their value. However, for those seeking a personal touch, fancy sapphires can be an excellent alternative to traditional blue.

Which colour of sapphire is the most expensive?

Traditional blue sapphires can fetch a wide-ranging amount of money. Typically, though, high-quality stones originating from desirable areas are the most expensive. Blue Kashmir sapphires, in particular, can demand a small fortune.

Likewise, among the range of fancy sapphires, Padparadscha is typically the most expensive source. Its rarity and enchanting exotic blend of pink and orange sets it apart in both price and desirability. This makes it a coveted treasure for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

What to look for when buying a sapphire gemstone

When purchasing a sapphire, understanding some key attributes will help you make an informed choice. Unlike diamonds, sapphires do not have a grading system, making personal preferences and awareness even more vital. So, what should you look for when buying a sapphire?

  1. Colour: The colour of a sapphire is a critical element of value. As we’ve seen, the most sought-after sapphires usually boast a rich, vivid blue. But there is also a spectrum of other colours, like pink, yellow, and green, that also offer distinct beauty. No matter the colour, the stone should be intense, uniform and bright — hue, saturation, and tone are all crucial factors in assessing sapphire value.
  2. Clarity: Clarity in sapphires refers to inclusions (small amounts of minerals that are “trapped” within the stone, creating patterns.) While flawless sapphires are rare, those with minimal or no visible inclusions can be more valuable. However, certain inclusions are unique to sapphires and can enhance their beauty, such as those causing the desirable asterism effect in star sapphires.
  3. Cut: The cut of a sapphire influences its brilliance and colour intensity. A well-cut sapphire will reflect light uniformly and showcase the colour evenly. The cut also determines the stone's shape and overall appearance, affecting its appeal and fitting with different jewellery styles.
  4. Carat weight: Generally, the larger the sapphire, the higher its value. This is especially true if the gem quality is also high. However, personal preference and the intended use in jewellery should guide the choice of size — bigger isn’t always necessarily better.
  5. Treatment: Heat treatment is standard in modern jewellery. Many sapphires are heat-treated to enhance their colour and clarity. However, untreated sapphires, although rarer and more expensive, are prized for their natural character.

Understanding these factors ensures you choose a sapphire that captivates your senses while offering lasting value. 

Sapphires vs other gemstones

When choosing a gemstone, it's helpful to understand how sapphires compare to other popular stones like diamonds, emeralds and rubies. Here's a concise comparison:

Composition

  • Sapphire: Corundum.
  • Diamond: Carbon.
  • Emerald: Beryl.
  • Ruby: Corundum with chromium, giving it a red hue.

Birthstone Month

  • Sapphire: September.
  • Diamond: April.
  • Emerald: May.
  • Ruby: July.

Cost

  • Sapphire: Generally less expensive than diamonds but this varies widely based on source, colour and clarity.
  • Diamond: Typically the most expensive, depending on the quality.
  • Emerald: Can be quite costly, especially high-quality stones.
  • Ruby: Often priced similarly to or higher than sapphires, depending on quality.

Hardness (Mohs Scale - higher number is a harder stone)

  • Sapphire: 9.
  • Diamond: 10.
  • Emerald: 7.5 to 8.
  • Ruby: 9.

Colour Range

  • Sapphire: Wide range, including blue, pink, yellow and green.
  • Diamond: Colourless and various colours.
  • Emerald: Green.
  • Ruby: Red.

Treatments

  • Sapphire: Commonly heat-treated to alter colour.
  • Diamond: Sometimes enhanced for colour or clarity.
  • Emerald: Often oiled or treated for cracks.
  • Ruby: Frequently heat-treated as with sapphires.

Each gemstone has its unique charm and characteristics. As you can see from the above comparison, sapphires offer a balance of hardness, colour diversity and affordability. This makes them a versatile choice for various jewellery styles. 

Sapphires vs other blue colour stones

Another key part of buying sapphires is comparing them to alternative blue stones such as aquamarine, topaz, zircon, opal and turquoise:

Composition

  • Sapphire: Corundum.
  • Aquamarine: Beryl, containing iron.
  • Topaz: Fluorine and aluminium silicate.
  • Zircon: Zirconium silicate.
  • Opal: Hydrated silica.
  • Turquoise: Copper aluminium phosphate.

Hardness (Mohs Scale — higher number is a harder stone)

  • Sapphire: 9.
  • Aquamarine: 7.5-8.
  • Topaz: 8.
  • Zircon: 6-7.5.
  • Opal: 5.5-6.
  • Turquoise: 5-6.

Colour Range

  • Sapphire: Various shades of blue, and other colours.
  • Aquamarine: Light to medium blue, often with a greenish tint.
  • Topaz: Wide range, including blue.
  • Zircon: Various, including blue.
  • Opal: Multi-coloured, including blue.
  • Turquoise: Typically blue to green.

Treatments

  • Sapphire: Often heat-treated.
  • Others: Often treated to enhance colour.

Price Range

  • Sapphire: Generally higher, varying with common factors.
  • Aquamarine: Moderate, depending on size and clarity.
  • Topaz: Affordable, varies with treatment.
  • Zircon: Relatively affordable, varies with quality.
  • Opal: Wide range, depending on type and colour.
  • Turquoise: Varies, but often more affordable.

While all these gemstones offer beautiful shades of blue, sapphires stand out for their hardness and brilliance. They are a more premium choice — whereas other stones provide more affordable alternatives with their own unique appeal.

What does wearing a sapphire ring mean?

Wearing a sapphire ring is more than just a fashion statement. Traditionally, these gemstones are an emblem of sincerity and honesty, while they’ve been a popular choice with royalty across the years, symbolising compassion and faithfulness.

Sapphires have also long been associated with loyalty, making them an ideal choice for engagement rings. A sapphire engagement ring symbolises a promise, embodying the trust and commitment of an enduring relationship.

Sapphires also hold a special significance as the September birthstone. They are thought to bring gifts of serenity and wisdom to those born in this month, making them a thoughtful and personalised choice for September birthday celebrations.

What are the most famous sapphires?

The world of sapphires is headlined by some famous — even legendary — examples:

  • Kate Middleton’s engagement ring: This iconic cabochon blue hue ring, formerly belonging to Princess Diana and now gifted by Prince William, features a stunning oval blue sapphire. Its royal association and timeless design have made it one of the most admired sapphire rings in the world.
  • The Stuart Sapphire: With a rich history, this 104-carat sapphire graces the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom, symbolising its storied past and royal heritage.
  • The Star of India: At an astonishing 563 carats, this is one of the world's largest blue sapphires. Its unique star-like pattern and sheer size make it a marvel. Thieves even stole this stone during one of the most daring jewellery heists ever, adding to its legend.
  • The Logan Sapphire: Weighing 423 carats, this Sri Lankan sapphire is one of the largest faceted blue sapphires. The Logan Sapphire is renowned worldwide for its exceptional clarity and vibrant colour.

What eras used sapphires?

Sapphires have been cherished throughout history. But they gained significant prominence in the late Victorian era, when new sources were found throughout the British Empire. Their popularity then soared in the Edwardian period, known for its elegant jewellery designs, and continued into the Art Deco era, characterised by bold, geometric patterns and vibrant colours.

"Sapphires were popular in every era in the past - and these days are as sought after as ever," says Sam Mee. "This is despite there being growing interest in less common blue gems, and a rise in demand for emeralds. Sapphires are seen as both classic and luxurious."

Today, people choose sapphires for their unique beauty and symbolism. Sapphires, especially in engagement rings, represent honesty and loyalty, making them a meaningful choice for couples. Their durability and array of colours also make them a versatile and desirable option for various jewellery styles.

When buying a sapphire, it's wise to see it in person to appreciate its true colour and sparkle. Always verify its history, ensuring authenticity and value. Above all, choose one that resonates with you personally, and contact an expert jeweller if you need help, guidance or advice.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much should I pay for a sapphire ring?

The price of a sapphire ring varies widely based on things like size, colour, clarity and origin. Generally, you can expect to pay from a few hundred to several thousand pounds, depending on these factors and the ring's design.

How can you tell a good sapphire?

A good sapphire gemstone displays vibrant colour, good clarity without visible inclusions (unless desired) and a symmetrical cut to enhance its brilliance.

Are sapphires better than diamonds?

Whether sapphires are better than diamonds depends on your personal preference. Fans of blue stones may certainly prefer sapphires. Objectively, sapphires offer a wider colour range and are less expensive per carat, while diamonds are prized for their unmatched brilliance, hardness and lavish reputation.

Does sapphire make a good ring?

Sapphire makes an excellent choice for rings. Its hardness makes it durable for everyday wear, and its variety of colours suits different styles. Sapphires also hold significant meaning, often associated with loyalty and sincerity, making them a popular choice for engagement rings.