Art Deco style, Austrian sapphire and diamond ring

Provenance

Although this ring was made in the 1980s, it looks straight out of 1925! Set to centre with a square step-cut sapphire with a stunning blueberry-blue hue. The step-cut was an innovation of the 1920s, well suited for the clean cut, rigid geometry that the movement prized so dearly. The step-cut can only be used on coloured gemstones with exceptional clarity, the large flat table acts like a window into the stone, making any inclusions instantly noticeable. True to Art Deco style, the ring has a low profile making it very comfortable and practical to be worn despite its elongated coverage. 

But geometry and symmetry weren’t Art Deco’s only inspirations. The movement was also heavily influenced by a fascination with ancient Egypt, sparked by the 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, which saw ‘Egyptomania’ sweep across the West. Here, the striking contrast between blue and gold, along with the balanced placement of symbols reminiscent of hieroglyphs, makes the ring’s Egyptian influence unmistakable. Two brilliant-cut diamonds in grain settings are set above and below the central sapphire, four in total with a combined approximate weight of 0.67ct. Flanked by geometric, stepped panels embossed with smaller rectangles, the design evokes the ordered rhythm of building blocks or bricks, neatly arranged like miniature façades. These elements recall the monumental pyramids of Giza, where the Pharaohs were laid to rest. The ring’s shoulders are more than decorative; they read as stylised columns, lending the impression of a tiny temple worn upon the hand.

The tell tale sign that this ring isn’t an original 1920s piece is the fact it is crafted almost exclusively in gold. Nearly all Art Deco jewellery was made in platinum, a much stronger white metal which allowed jewellers to craft intricate filigree work and structured architectural forms. What I love about this ring besides its playful take on ancient history, is that it strikes an interesting balance between the opulence of its materials with the restraint of its design. It is both ornamental and architectural, intimate yet monumental - you won’t find another like it. 

The Stones

• Sapphire weight: 0.85ct
• Sapphire size: Length 6.0mm; Width 5.95mm; Depth 2.5mm
• Total diamond weight: 0.67ct

The Band

• Metal Composition: 14ct yellow gold
• Hallmarks: marked with '585' indicating 14ct yellow gold.
• Band Size: UK P 1/2 / US 8
• Resizing: Single complimentary resize available, this ring can be adjusted up or down.

The Ring Overall

• Front Head Dimensions: Length 19.25mm; Width 18mm (including shoulders)
• Height of Setting: 3.7mm
  

General Wear & Condition

• Excellent: minor wear commensurate with age. All stones are secure and well set, with no damage to the mount. Professionally polished and carefully inspected by our workshop, ready to wear and enjoy.

Unless stated otherwise, gem weights and specifications are estimated (assessed in mount).